You're doing it wrong.............. For high speed you use slow shutter speed and a flash. The flash becomes your shutter. You take object in dark room and use the flash to illuminate the object for idk maybe around 1/19000th of a second (It's light dude. It's fast) that's how they get it so precise
Very nice Gavan. I have been looking into constructing a photogate trigger with variable delay for these types of shots. Do you mind if I asked for a list of your equipment? I am also curious; are you triggering the flash or using the trigger to cycle the camera? I would like to trigger the camera but I am worried about the extra latency that the shutter lag would introduce. If if simply fire the flash that I currently have, I think that I will get a longer flash duration than if the camera is controlling the flash via off camera cord; currently shooting Canon 20D with Canon 380EX speedlight. Any information regarding your methods would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work. I would like to see more high speed shots from you in the future.
PS: Have you tried the shots where you see a falling drop of fluid colliding with a rebounding drop? More challenging, but also a real attention getter.
heya, sorry for the late reply... i built a sound/light trigger for flash. for highspeed photography you really need to use a flash.. the fastest you can image with your shutter i believe is about an 8000th with the 20D.. compared to approx 40,000th with a flash on lowest power setting. Also to use a shutter you would need a massive amount of light. The highspeed shots i have done were in a darkened invironment, the drop passes through a laser beam, when the beam is broken the trigger fires a flash (which has a variable delay)... the shot was taken with a 30D and 580exII.
havnt yet attempted colliding drops.. its on the cards though as well as a few other ideas.
Same here Gavan, sorry for the late reply. Thanks for sharing your technique. I still haven't tried the trigger. I just haven't gotten around to purchasing the components and trying to assemble one. I have found a good amount of information regarding the construction of a sound/light trigger online. Again, thanks for sharing your technique.
If you use a 10 second or so exposure in total darkness you can eliminate the variable of the camera syncing with the flash. Whatever is going on when the flash goes off will be the image the camera records, frozen in time.